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Post by gregggagliardi on Jan 17, 2014 19:43:18 GMT -8
Jim: The setup with the Tibloc is also one of my favorites.
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Post by gregggagliardi on Jan 18, 2014 12:04:38 GMT -8
Jim: The setup with the Tibloc is also one of my favorites. Wish DMM made a Revolver carabiner that allowed attachment of a Tibloc
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Post by gregggagliardi on Jan 21, 2014 21:05:23 GMT -8
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Post by dougsanders on Oct 3, 2015 6:53:13 GMT -8
A member of Skagit Mountain Rescue came up with an inexpensive solution for minding any diameter prusiks on any diameter rope (in use today).
A flat nylon washer with and ID of 1/2", OD of 1 3/8", and 1/8" thickness, with a saw cut from ID to OD, can be twisted (bent) open to fit around the rope and placed between prusik and pulley.
These washers are common at hardware stores. The washer can be stored on a carabiner along with the pulley. There are some carabiners with noses too large to accommodate the 1/2" hole. Washer may have to be twisted open to fit around the carabiner.
This is not a perfect solution as it requires a washer not normally carried by climbers. The washer-any pulley combination is $30 cheaper than a PMP and will work on small diameter rope with small diameter prusiks where the PMP doesn't.
This is new, appears to be sound, but has not rigorously tested and should be considered experimental until it has been used in a variety of situations and proven.
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Post by dougsanders on May 14, 2016 7:26:46 GMT -8
A promising technique is to use a cord sling wrapped around the rope with an overhand knot. It is placed between the pulley and prusik.
The 'overhand hitch' is tight enough to mind the prusik and large enough, and with the right configuration, to not be sucked into the pulley and jam the works.
This seems to work for all common rope diameters, prusik diameters and common pulleys. It doesn't require any atypical gear to be carried.
The cord sling could be a seat prusik or autoblock. The tails of the overhand knot can be continued around the rope and tied with another overhand knot for more security. (It is presumed that with multiple resets the overhand knot will loosen.
Have tried a variety of hitches. Nearly all will be sucked partially into the pulley.
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