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Post by gregggagliardi on May 22, 2013 12:17:21 GMT -8
I think the answer that I am hearing, and agree with, is 'no'. I believe that many basic students can be taught to be reasonably competent belayers but they will require more training and practice. Here is what I think they need to be able to do:
1. Belay from either a standing or sitting position. 2. Know when to tie in tight to the anchor and when to tie in with some slack 3. Know how and when to give a dynamic belay 4. Know how to escape the belay and tie off a fallen leader from either a sitting belay (anchor behind), standing belay (anchor behind) and standing belay (anchor in front). 5. Know what the options are when the leader falls: (a) communicate with the leader when possible (b) lower the leader on the leader's commands (c) what to do when no communication with the leader is possible (d) what can be done if the leader is badly injured or unconscious (ways to get help).
Fall catching techniques are easily practiced safely at a gym or artificial climbing wall. Tie in techniques are also easy to practice in most gyms and on most walls. (Sport climbing is a very good introduction). Escaping the belay and tying off the leader from any position is possible if the student is taught the proper technique (Munter Mule Over Hand knots tie-off method). It will work from any belay position. Number 5 is best taught with practice scenarios.
Given the importance of communication in a situation with a fallen leader I think everyone on a basic rock climb should be carrying a functioning radio. This is a good recommendation for intermediate climbing teams too. Mountain Rescue is many hours away.
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Post by nicklyle on May 30, 2013 12:10:54 GMT -8
Radios can be very useful, but they can fail too. I like to discuss with my belayer what to do if the radio and voice communication fails. This on the spot planning depends on the context. Sometimes this plan might be as crude as an instruction to, when all the rope has run out, wait 10 minutes and start climbing. Sometimes you just have no way to cover all the possible problems, but if there is no way to communicate you at least need a plan.
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Post by dougsanders on Jun 5, 2013 7:47:21 GMT -8
This tread is drifting all over the place. I think, in the long run, the Discussion Forum is better served by minimizing thread drift and starting new topics.
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