Post by jessicatodd on Nov 21, 2013 17:45:03 GMT -8
Jim asked me to post some suggestions I’ve had for Basic. I’m pretty busy so it’s not a work of art….Putting some things out there. Some may have been covered elsewhere on this message board, some maybe have already been changed.
I have attempted to compile notes to highlight some areas-iMost are specific to Basic curriculum, some deviate to general community in two numbered sections: Curriculum Improvements and Culture.
Generally, these ideas come from listening to a lot of people’s stories and my own experiences/observations.
Curriculum:
1) Focus on decision making skills. Let the students create their climbs. (When I took Basic there was very little of this)
a. Learning terrain/objective hazards. For example, gullies, party inflicted rock fall, seracs, weather, how to look for crevasses etc.. Those are the important skills. The ones that will keep us out of trouble in the mountains. Actually this should be 90% of the curriculum.
b. dangers of roping up on snow/ice and not placing pro. It’s hard to self arrest, even harder when you are trying to stop 2 other people. Talk to them about weight differences. Sometimes it’s better to be unroped. Don’t just tell them how to tie in and walk behind others and clipping pickets…..
c. Focus on stability and crampons and ice tools.
d. Read accidents of North American Mountaineering.
2) Texas Pussik in the pocket or elsewhere is scary-it falls out and you can trip. Guides teach other methods.
3) Remove the belay escape from Basic, it should be taught in intermediate. It’s overwhelming with all the other new systems and knot tying skills they are required to learn. It’s TOO much for someone just learning. Besides, someone just learning to climb wouldn’t be in the situation to do anything with a belay escape. One reason of many is usually you can lower the climber, especially on the short group climbs listed as basic climbs, and if you can’t there are other things you do.
4) “Lead belay Card” from a local gym prior to going out on climbs where they are required to lead belay. I've had five direct bad experiences with people that have learned to lead belay (or not!) at the Mountaineers and heard other’s stories. Encourage lots of practice belaying
a. Encourage people to learn to climb/belay-at the crags and gym. Encourage them to go out on scrambles. A lot-before they sign up for rock climbs.
5) Revise the “grade cards”. Call them “Skills to develop” The grades can be L(learning) or M(mastered) I looked at one 2 years ago, it needed a lot of help….maybe some of the things have been revised since then..like failing people for using their knees while climbing. I use my knees a lot!
6) Sitting while belaying..Not regularly and not normally….
7) It’s a big job to revise the curriculum, we are all busy to stay up to date and do it…pay an outside organization like AMGA to help!
Culture:
1) Get rid of the ranking culture.
a. Calling people “basics” equals humiliation. (we are all adults with a wealth of knowledge that we bring to the table, not in the boot camp military)
b. In the learning and outdoor environment, people are “mentors” instead of “leaders”, brief reasons why:
i. Mentor: An experienced and trusted advisor.
ii. Leader: In command in others
*Also, what about the personal liability of the “One in command” on an outdoor excursion? I equate that to guiding.
c. How about Alpine Climbing 1, Apline Climbing 2 instead of Basic/Intermediate?
2) SIG groups create SILOs (isolation)
3) Limit all climbing chair committee heads to 2 years or whatever. Keeps things fresh and flowing.(post requests for new heads publicly once term expires, maybe a vote.)
3) Give people a chance to contribute, ask questions, in a non threatening environment.
4) Don’t threaten people with failing-instead use terms like “areas to develop”
5) Have ZERO tolerance for bullying. And create a system that stops it.
I have attempted to compile notes to highlight some areas-iMost are specific to Basic curriculum, some deviate to general community in two numbered sections: Curriculum Improvements and Culture.
Generally, these ideas come from listening to a lot of people’s stories and my own experiences/observations.
Curriculum:
1) Focus on decision making skills. Let the students create their climbs. (When I took Basic there was very little of this)
a. Learning terrain/objective hazards. For example, gullies, party inflicted rock fall, seracs, weather, how to look for crevasses etc.. Those are the important skills. The ones that will keep us out of trouble in the mountains. Actually this should be 90% of the curriculum.
b. dangers of roping up on snow/ice and not placing pro. It’s hard to self arrest, even harder when you are trying to stop 2 other people. Talk to them about weight differences. Sometimes it’s better to be unroped. Don’t just tell them how to tie in and walk behind others and clipping pickets…..
c. Focus on stability and crampons and ice tools.
d. Read accidents of North American Mountaineering.
2) Texas Pussik in the pocket or elsewhere is scary-it falls out and you can trip. Guides teach other methods.
3) Remove the belay escape from Basic, it should be taught in intermediate. It’s overwhelming with all the other new systems and knot tying skills they are required to learn. It’s TOO much for someone just learning. Besides, someone just learning to climb wouldn’t be in the situation to do anything with a belay escape. One reason of many is usually you can lower the climber, especially on the short group climbs listed as basic climbs, and if you can’t there are other things you do.
4) “Lead belay Card” from a local gym prior to going out on climbs where they are required to lead belay. I've had five direct bad experiences with people that have learned to lead belay (or not!) at the Mountaineers and heard other’s stories. Encourage lots of practice belaying
a. Encourage people to learn to climb/belay-at the crags and gym. Encourage them to go out on scrambles. A lot-before they sign up for rock climbs.
5) Revise the “grade cards”. Call them “Skills to develop” The grades can be L(learning) or M(mastered) I looked at one 2 years ago, it needed a lot of help….maybe some of the things have been revised since then..like failing people for using their knees while climbing. I use my knees a lot!
6) Sitting while belaying..Not regularly and not normally….
7) It’s a big job to revise the curriculum, we are all busy to stay up to date and do it…pay an outside organization like AMGA to help!
Culture:
1) Get rid of the ranking culture.
a. Calling people “basics” equals humiliation. (we are all adults with a wealth of knowledge that we bring to the table, not in the boot camp military)
b. In the learning and outdoor environment, people are “mentors” instead of “leaders”, brief reasons why:
i. Mentor: An experienced and trusted advisor.
ii. Leader: In command in others
*Also, what about the personal liability of the “One in command” on an outdoor excursion? I equate that to guiding.
c. How about Alpine Climbing 1, Apline Climbing 2 instead of Basic/Intermediate?
2) SIG groups create SILOs (isolation)
3) Limit all climbing chair committee heads to 2 years or whatever. Keeps things fresh and flowing.(post requests for new heads publicly once term expires, maybe a vote.)
3) Give people a chance to contribute, ask questions, in a non threatening environment.
4) Don’t threaten people with failing-instead use terms like “areas to develop”
5) Have ZERO tolerance for bullying. And create a system that stops it.