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Post by gregggagliardi on Dec 3, 2013 13:42:15 GMT -8
Stopping a crevasse fall can sometimes be difficult, much more so than novice climbers realize. Here is a video that presents a kind of worst case scenario. gearjunkie.com/crazy-crevasse-falling-videoCompare this with the French video on stopping a crevasse fall when a few (3) braking knots are tied into the rope near the falling climber. m.youtube.com/user/AlpinismeENSA?&desktop_uri=%2Fuser%2FAlpinismeENSAComments on the videos, their realism or lack of realism, and the possible value of this information for inclusion in Freedom 9 would be helpful. Also worth considering is the educational value of showing these videos to basic and intermediate climbers, and the possible use of the set-ups for practicing self arrest, team arrest and crevasse rescue.
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Post by geneyore on Dec 6, 2013 7:10:12 GMT -8
A link to the first video was also in an email from Climbing Magazine, www.climbing.com/video/self-arrest-practice-falling-into-a-crevasse/. This video certainly gets viewers attention and motivates one to learn and be vigilant. Seems like of great value in basic lecture/meeting on crevasses and arrest. Also maybe a link to it from Freedom9?
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Post by jimnelson on Dec 6, 2013 11:17:34 GMT -8
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Post by gregggagliardi on Dec 6, 2013 15:31:03 GMT -8
Indeed. As many of us have discovered, ice axe arrest is a limited tool. An ounce of prevention (good footwork, attentive team, knowledgeable, careful rope leader) is worth a ton of cure. I don't think this is adequately communicated in many climbing circles. Way too much false reliance on ice axe arrest and way less attention to other glacier travel skills.
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Post by steveglenn on Dec 23, 2013 12:50:19 GMT -8
I would second the comment from gregggagliardi (above) and add that ice axes and crampons often give users a false sense of security. We need more training on snow travel, with more emphasis about conditions where arrest may be ineffective and a belay will be a better idea.
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