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Post by jimnelson on Dec 11, 2013 19:38:13 GMT -8
Is lead climbing on artificial climbing walls and sport climbs valuable as a progression towards trad leading?
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Post by geneyore on Dec 13, 2013 16:06:58 GMT -8
For me, yes.
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Post by jasonmartin on Dec 13, 2013 16:42:25 GMT -8
Absolutely. It helps people get the right mindset for being on the sharp end...
Jason
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Post by dougsanders on Dec 16, 2013 7:10:24 GMT -8
Not sure about value of walls. Petty sure there is psychological value (pro below) with leading on sport climb bolted routes.
Although not requested, there is value in top rope trad 'leading' on sport routes (Standard 2-person climbing team but with leader additionally on a top rope.) There is also psychological (and practical) value in have the beginning leader follow a modest class (well below their following ability) trad route, at least once, immediately before leading it. Repeating the same route further reduces anxiety and increases their ability to focus on climbing and placement efficiency. Doing similar class routes and slowly increasing the difficulty is invaluable for confidence and efficiency building. Above all, no lead falls for the new leader.
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Post by gregggagliardi on Dec 16, 2013 11:05:51 GMT -8
There are three fundamental skills to rock climbing. These are best taught in sequence. The safest environment for 1 and 2 is first in the gym and then on sport routes. Number 3 requires several components: placing pro and building anchors (ground level), placing pro on mock leads, following experienced trad leaders and, finally, leading easy multipitch trad route pitches that are 2 grades below onsight ability.
1. Climbing movement skills 2. Climbing above pro 3. Placing pro/building anchors
Climbers shouldn't lead until they have good climbing skills on different terrain. Climbers can greatly benefit from leading on bolted routes where pro placement and anchor building are simple. They can use this to focus on the "head game". They can also benefit from serving a meaningful apprenticeship following experienced trad leaders. (checking their pro placements, studying their anchors, learning about when and how to back off, etc.). I was once informed that world renown soloist, John Bachar, followed more experienced rock climbers for 2 or 3 years before he began leading pitches.
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