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Post by jimnelson on Dec 21, 2013 10:47:08 GMT -8
While the efficiency of the pulley is better than the carabiner and the weight insignificant; the simpler method offered by Jason might make some sense for the clubs basic mountaineering course. see thread on prusik minding pulleys here freedom9bestpractice.freeforums.net/thread/121/pmp-substitute?page=1&scrollTo=500Use of the pulley w/prusik and other ratchets could be part of additional Crevasse Rescue curriculum in the intermediate course, or any modular or stand alone Glacier Travel Courses. Currently the Crevasse Rescue taught in the basic course is a fine beginning suitable for large group glacier travel, but there is more to know. The basic crevasse rescue curriculum focuses on building a raising system and not much more. You pass a fairly specific test at basic, and then because there is nothing additional with the intermediate course you are basically assumed to have full glacier travel knowledge.
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Post by gregggagliardi on Jan 21, 2014 16:13:32 GMT -8
I agree with Jim. What a basic course student needs to know to safely join a basic glacier climb is fairly limited. When climbing according to our own climbing code there should always be enough people on top to haul someone out of a crevasse with a 2:1 drop loop. Although a pulley can increase efficiency it isn't critical and there is value in teaching students how to carry out a group crevasse rescue without one.
Students do need to learn how to walk safely on glaciers up to 30 degrees with and without crampons. They need to learn how to self-belay on steep snow and how to arrest a fall while climbing solo or in a team. They need to know how to build a crevasse rescue snow anchor that is secure enough to safely wait for team 2 to inspect it and beef it up if necessary. They need to know how to rig for a basic glacier and prusik up a rope Texas style. They especially need to know how to make themselves safe while in a crevasse and how to assist those on top to help them out of the crevasse should they fall in and not be able to get out on their own.
More complex glacier travel and crevasse rescue skills need to be taught as part of the intermediate climbing program. The sooner that basic students get out and get climbing, the better. The most important learning is learning that takes place on actual climbs. Every aspect of the basic climbing program needs to be reviewed. The question ought to be: Is this skill/technique truly required for a basic student to safely follow a rope leader on a basic glacier, alpine or rock climb?
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