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Post by jimnelson on Jan 1, 2014 9:36:21 GMT -8
For a party of 4 or 5 climbers; all on one rope or two rope teams? Everyone with the same experience level, and about the same weight.
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Post by gregggagliardi on Jan 2, 2014 12:03:01 GMT -8
My vote is two 30 meter half ropes (ca. 9 mm or so).They weigh no more than one 60 meter half rope and two ropes offer more options for rescue. It is also more efficient for teams to travel on shorter ropes. If there are any rock sections to be climbed they can lead on the two 30 meter half ropes. If needed two 30 meter ropes can always be tied together (e.g. for an emergency lower), or if negotiating huge crevasses
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Post by dougsanders on Jan 2, 2014 15:01:55 GMT -8
The 'recommendation' for 2 teams on a glacier is the single 'waffle' in the climbing code.
Would lean toward 2 teams especially where there is significant glacier travel or hazard. 2 teams offers greatest flexibility for rescue, pace differences, technical obstacles, or possibly being able to deal with an ill climber without scrubbing the entire climb.
Could be persuaded to use one rope if the glacier thickness was shallow, hidden crevasses unlikely, not much glacier travel, some unique character of glacier, a well used path, navigation in a whiteout, little or no other need for the rope, and long enough rope for the party. A team of 4 on Mount Olympus comes to mind via Hoh River or an excursion from the Bailey Range traverse.
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Post by jasonmartin on Jan 10, 2014 10:08:12 GMT -8
I think it's totally fine to have five or six people on the same rope. The reality is that there is so much weight that if someone goes through people are unlikely to even have to arrest. A large group of people on the same rope increases security in standard glacier travel.
There are several downsides. First, as has been mentioned is that it's easier to perform a rescue with two teams. The second is that moving with one rope is slow. There are more people who might be moving at different speeds, more people taking minibreaks, etc. And the third, as Greg indicated, is it's harder to make transitions for varied terrain.
But there's nothing wrong with a single rope for a larger group for routes like the Coleman-Deming on Baker, etc.
Jason
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