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Post by samuelpull on Jan 8, 2015 12:02:58 GMT -8
The text is unclear about the correct procedure of the leader clipping in and buidling a multidirectional belay anchor. Sections "Tying in to the anchor" (pp. 170-172) and "Arriving at the next belay" (p. 270) deal with the same, yet they are disconnected. For example, the latter mentions a multidirectional belay anchor (Ch.10), which in the former section is not identified as such. Page 170 tells to first establish a solid anchor, then to connect the rope. This seems to suggest making all placements, eventually tying a cordelette and only after these steps are done tying in with the rope. Maybe a little more explicit sequence would be helpful for beginning leaders? Place the piece, tie in and only then fiddle around with chocks. Something like the Mountaineers video 1:55 onwards: vimeo.com/33940152
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