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Post by gregggagliardi on Mar 14, 2013 9:13:56 GMT -8
Guides often carry their cordelettes untied. This has an important advantage: the cord may be tied in different ways to meet the demands of specific circumstances. 20 feet of 7mm cord can be used to: tie a cordelette in the usual manner, tie an equalette (useful for better force equalization for vertically configured pro), webolette (useful for widely spaced pro), rabbit runner (useful for anchoring around large objects like trees or boulders) and rescue (useful for setting up complex hauling systems like the double mariner 5:1 system). One very useful method for tying a cordelette uses a Frost knot to tie all the strands together at the master point. It looks a little spooky at first, but once examined it becomes obvious that it is just as strong as any other knot with a tail (e.g., figure 8). This method can be used with untied cord. It is also quick to tie and easier to equalize than a loop of cord. Space does not permit a video showing the process (max attachment size is 1024KB). I am working on a video demo. In the meantime here is it what it looks like tied and ready to belay. Attachments:
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Post by nicklyle on Mar 14, 2013 22:31:30 GMT -8
I like this!
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Post by geneyore on Mar 29, 2013 5:53:53 GMT -8
Admin has an action to find the best way we can share larger files, pics & videos.
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Post by jasonmartin on Jun 8, 2013 8:39:24 GMT -8
Most guides actually tend to tie their cordelletes, but they tend to tie them with double over-hand flat bends...two EDKs stacked on top of one another. These knots are easy to untie so that you can use the whole cordellete if you need to.
Jason
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