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Post by nicklyle on May 17, 2013 17:24:27 GMT -8
I think bollards are a good technique to know, however they have often been taught at the wrong time of year, in unconsolidated snow conditions. You can make a fairly small but solid bollard in firm summer snow or carved out of glacier ice in late season, and this is more practical than digging giant scary bollards in soft snow.
I think it would be a good idea to teach some of the snow and glacier travel techniques later in the year when the snow is consolidated. Winter and fresh-snow travel and anchoring techniques should be taught in winter. Summer snow travel should be taught in summer.
Scheduling issues, and the desire people have to get on glacier climbs as early in the season as practical, sometimes tend to push the snow travel classes back into spring conditions. That is OK, but some topics and procedures would be better taught later in the year. Perhaps there could be a way to incorporate a specific set of tutorials into some basic glacier climbs. For instance, on a three day climb of Rainier by the DC or the Emmons Routes there would be plenty of time for review of specific glacier travel techniques while acclimatizing at high camp. Or students could accomplish the same tutorials on a field trip with a mentor group. Alternatively the snow travel/glacier travel field trips can simply be scheduled for later in the year.
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Post by gregggagliardi on May 21, 2013 12:03:21 GMT -8
I think lowering less experienced climbers on steep snow is quicker and safer than building, testing and relying on a bollard. Experienced climbers can down climb using two tools, or be lowered with the last one down climbing on protection if the down climb is treacherous. In any event, it is an easy skill to learn.
Scheduling snow/glacier travel FTs later in the season is an excellent idea. Late Winter/Spring conditions are usually poor for teaching these skills. The snow is usually too soft for practicing crampon technique or for meaningful ice arrest practice. Also, it is easier to gain access to open crevasses for realistic crevasse rescue practice later in the season (Mt Baker being an exception).
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Post by adamnelson on Sept 28, 2013 15:46:26 GMT -8
Integrating educational teaching points to basic climbs is a great idea. Doing a half day snow school to review all things glacier travel while on a climb would be a great way to reinforce techniques. Anchors, roped travel, and self arrest need to be practiced many times to develop proficiency. This would obviously not work on a one day climb of Whitehorse but is perfect for a three day climb of Rainier.
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