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Belay
May 21, 2013 13:17:21 GMT -8
Post by jimnelson on May 21, 2013 13:17:21 GMT -8
What can we realistically expect basic climbers to be able to do when they are belaying a leader on a multi-pitch climb ? I would want them to understand the differences between belaying a leader, and belaying a second (or top-rop). The Seattle Basic Course is teaching them that a belay is a belay. At least that's my sense. How does a belayer who is tied in tight give a dynamic belay? Fine if they are guided clients, but I don't see how we are teaching them what we say we are teaching. Competent to belay a leader for a multi pitch alpine rock climb. Also a belayer who is tied in tight may have difficulty dodging falling objects, or moving to a better position? In Seattle the belayer has been taught that they must be sitting, which also makes it difficult to move quickly. previous thread freedom9bestpractice.freeforums.net/thread/13?ixzz2TzMtYjtL=undefined
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Belay
May 21, 2013 19:32:48 GMT -8
Post by nicklyle on May 21, 2013 19:32:48 GMT -8
The awkward truth is that it takes a while to learn all the subtleties and various techniques that make for a skilled belayer. There is also a wide range of experience and ability among students. You have to start somewhere. Basic climbs are easy for some, hard for others. Sometimes a basic student is paired with an experienced mentor. Sometimes they may find themselves belaying a green intermediate rope lead. The truth is that one cookie cutter curriculum will not be perfect for everybody and every situation, and it will take time for a new climber to get the experience they need to understand the contexts where various techniques will fit best. While it makes sense to keep things relatively simple for beginners, simple should never degenerate into simplistic. I believe that one should teach students to do things the way a skilled climber really does things. Belaying a leader who might be in danger of a factor 1 fall, particularly if the belayer is in danger of being jerked off their stance, is a time the belayer needs to think about keeping a taught anchor. In another situation, with lots of rope out and pro in place, a more dynamic catch or the ability to dodge rock fall might be more important than a taught anchor. Either way you can often get the best compromise with a standing belay, allowing the belayer the ability to move around with the possibility of keeping a taught line to the anchor at the same time. The belayers best body position is always situational, depending on the location and design of the anchor, the need to see other climbers, ease of rope handling, the size of the belayer, the nature of the terrain, the need to shelter the belayer, etc. The beginner will learn all of this in time, by climbing with good mentors. I learned to climb with hip belays; body position was critical in those days! Sitting down often made the most sense with a hip belay. Using a belay device gives the freedom to use a much wider variety of stances with the ability to let the energy of a fall flow right through to the anchor. I guess the question I would ask is: are we teaching Basic students the techniques we would use if we were in their situation? We should be. Read more: freedom9bestpractice.freeforums.net/index.cgi?board=belay&action=display&thread=13#ixzz2TzMtYjtL
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