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Post by gregggagliardi on Jul 12, 2013 9:59:33 GMT -8
What do you think about including a short section on sequential anchor failure in Freedom 9? Most climbers, even experienced ones, may be surprised to learn that when a lead climber falls and the top-most pro fails, fall forces increase on the next piece of pro, most likely due to the rope temporarily becoming stiffer (more static). Here is a link to an article on this subject taken from the AMGA website. www.google.com/search?q=sequential%20anchor%20failure
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Post by jimnelson on Jul 17, 2013 10:34:35 GMT -8
Higher force on the second anchor "most likely due to the rope temporarily becoming stiffer (more static)" and also the tie-in knot tightening. These tests and the info. referenced here help us better understand the forces involved through the belay system. Rope stiffness variables, and other energy absorption factors in the belay system. Here is a link to the Tom Moyer study referenced in the Sequential Anchor Failure study user.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/Simulation_of_Climbing_and_Rescue_Belays.pdf
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