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Post by gregggagliardi on Sept 18, 2013 14:05:34 GMT -8
If we include in Freedom 9 use of the Munter on an HMS as a belay method, off the harness or directly off the anchor, should we also teach the autoblocking Munter? See: www.climbing.com/skill/munter-magic/For video demo see:
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Post by jimnelson on Sept 18, 2013 18:33:58 GMT -8
Does anyone know if there is an easy way to give slack?
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Post by gregggagliardi on Sept 19, 2013 9:35:58 GMT -8
Great question that reveals an important limitation. This technique is best limited to belaying a follower where giving slack is not as critical or timely as it is for a leader who calls for slack before clipping a piece of gear. The example that Caroline George gives is bringing up one or two followers. The application to two followers may be the most useful since it allows two completely independent belay systems; one for each follower. The same thing can of course be accomplished with an ATC Guide or Reverso, so the Munter alternative stands in the same relation to plate type belay devices as before; it's a good thing to know if you forget or lose your belay device.
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Post by gregggagliardi on Mar 5, 2014 13:39:59 GMT -8
Here is more on the autoblocking Munter
The autoblocking Munter works best to belay a second directly off the anchor on a multipitch climb. It is an especially nice technique when belaying two followers. It is very difficult to release when loaded. Consequently it is a poor choice for belaying a second on a very steep or overhanging route where there is a chance that s/he might fall and then be unable to unweight the rope.
The technique has been described in several high traffic sources such as Climbing and Rock and Ice. What those articles fail to address is a problem with the autolocking biner's screw gate. When rope is pulled through the system it tends to rotate the autolocking biner, eventually causing the rope to run across the screw gate, thereby threatening to unlock it. This can be prevented by using a locker that is not a screw gate, or better yet by clipping a quick draw to the autolocking biner and then clipping the other end of the draw to the belayer's belay loop. Pulling back slightly on the draw causes the system to run more smoothly, prevents movement of the autolocking biner and prevents unlocking the screw gate. Set up this way it still locks off automatically as long as the belayer does not pull back too hard on the draw. If s/he does pull too hard it will still lock off but also pull the belayer a few inches during a fall.
All in all a good technique but like all techniques it has limitations and caveats.
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