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Post by gregggagliardi on Nov 20, 2013 15:29:55 GMT -8
In my quest to educate myself about climbing forces and the physics of same, I have run across a lot of interesting, important information that ought to be shared with climbers. Some of it clearly runs contrary to information in Freedom 8. More often, the information doesn't appear in Freedom 8. Much of the work that has been done has been reported by engineers. It is way too technical for Freedom 9. However, a lot of it can be explained and summarized in terms that ordinary climbers can understand. I am wondering if we ought to ask someone knowledgeable with this literature to summarize the main findings and implications for safe climbing practice.
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Post by gregggagliardi on Dec 5, 2013 9:29:03 GMT -8
Here is an interesting paper on the distribution of forces on pro in different rope path configurations. Although some configurations seem contrived, and unlikely for experienced climbers, the basic point remains: force distribution changes with the path of the rope. Also some nice tests of rope elasticity with repeated falls. I thought that each time I run across something like this I would post it under this heading. personal.strath.ac.uk/andrew.mclaren/Joe%20Bett%20Technical%20Paper%202013.pdf
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Post by gregggagliardi on Dec 5, 2013 9:47:52 GMT -8
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Post by gregggagliardi on Feb 13, 2014 10:18:35 GMT -8
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Post by Deling Ren on Feb 14, 2014 12:34:56 GMT -8
How about starting with introducing some basic concepts and analytic methods? Many climbers I know don't even understand the difference between mass and force.
Some examples:
* concepts of mass, force, potential energy, kinetic energy, momentum, etc * rough ranges of climbing forces * introduction of Newton's laws and their application in analyzing climbing dynamics * fall factor and why it matters * rope dynamics. such as static elongation, dynamic elongation, maximum force, etc. * anchor dynamics. such as force distribution in multipoint anchor systems
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