|
Post by gregggagliardi on Dec 23, 2013 14:59:21 GMT -8
Occasionally it is necessary to lower a climber quickly on two or more ropes tied together. The knot pass can be a bit of a hassle when the lower is completed with a device. Lowering on Munter permits an easier knot pass that does not require a load releasing device for load transfer. The technique is described several places including Andy Kilpatrick's nifty book's "1000+ Climbing Tips" (BTW: well worth reading). Here is another description: kurthicks.com/2009/04/01/skill-series-easy-knot-passing-during-a-lower/Techniques such as this one and the Super Munter (aka Monster Munter) are good impromptu tools, requiring no extra gear. For safety, attach an autoblock onto the rope in front of the knot joining the ropes and clip it to the operator's harness, When the joining knot gets a few inches from the Munter, attach a second autoblock on the rope behind the first one and then remove the first one. This way there is always a back-up to the hand regulating the lower.
|
|
|
Post by jasonmartin on Dec 30, 2013 14:13:39 GMT -8
One important consideration on Kurt's blog is that he demonstrates the technique with a very large "munter-biner" on a low diameter rope. If you don't have this combination, then you'll have to resort to another technique for passing the knot.
Jason
|
|
|
Post by gregggagliardi on Dec 30, 2013 16:35:55 GMT -8
Thanks Jason. That makes good sense. Any suggestions about maximum rope diameter for this technique (or minimum HMS biner size)? Nowadays most folks climb most trad routes on about 9.5mm to 9.8 mm ropes, and snow and ice routes on half or twin ropes. I am assuming that anyone using a technique such as this would be using their belay biner for this (usually a large HMS locker).
|
|
|
Post by jasonmartin on Dec 31, 2013 11:01:44 GMT -8
I think most ropes up to about 10mm will fit, but if someone doesn't have a large munter biner - HMS size preferred - then they shouldn't even try it. The last thing you want in a rescue situation is to have a knot welded into a carabiner.
Thanks,
Jason
|
|