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Post by Tony Tsuboi on Feb 6, 2014 13:24:05 GMT -8
Freedom8 has a very brief mention of the Munter Rappel that says it’s “very safe” and refers to setup of the Munter Hitch for belay covered in chapter 10. With recent issues that have surfaced with the Munter Rap, we need to expand this section so this is addressed adequately. This would include an image of the preferred configuration. Note, there are four possible configurations for rappelling with a munter hitch. Two of them can unscrew the gate lock and unclip if the rope were to come into contact with the gate. Only one configuration prevents this and also prevents contact with the gate. If this section were added, it should also explain the downsides of the other three configurations. It should also remove mention of this as a simple safe method to rappel, as there are nuances to understand about correct configuration, and getting it wrong could be catastrophic.
Attached is an image of the preferred configuration. Note the gate is on the Left, the rope rolls OVER the spine on the RIGHT HAND side. Also, to prevent this orientation rotating, the setup should always be under load or double checked prior to re-loading.
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Post by dougsanders on Mar 22, 2014 11:35:18 GMT -8
Can someone explain why it is safer to have the rope exit over, rather than under, the basket? (As shown in the photos.)
When exiting over the basket both strands nearest the lock are moving in the direction to unscrew the lock. In the event the strands shift over the lock, they could unscrew it.
When exiting under the basket the moving strands are in the direction to tighten the lock.
How could strands shift to being over the lock?
*Un-weighting the rope to allow movement into a awkward start. *When the rappel is in stages and one un-weights the rope to get to the next drop. *While on rappel the bulky, twisted, binding, strands running through the biner (inherent in long Munter raps or using twisted ropes.) *Larger diameter ropes with smaller parabiners. *Feeding rope through the Munter.
A rappeller is watching many things and cannot constantly assure the strands have not shifted over the lock and gate. Furthermore, it may not be possible to move the rap rope off the lock without stopping and loosening the Munter.
I think the argument for rope over the basket is, when under the basket and switching hands the running rope is in the direction for unscrewing the lock.
Switching hands seems to be less likely than the other possibilities.
I know Seattle has seen some incidents with teaching Munter rappels. What are the other issues and is there a definitive conclusion?
Yes, if the locker was an auto-locker it would not matter.
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Post by gregggagliardi on Mar 23, 2014 19:28:15 GMT -8
Alan Jolly ( senior guide who developed the first rock training courses for the AMGA: Author of Guide Tricks for Climbers DVD) recommends that with the Munter rappel the braking hand is held forward in the braking position. This works well once the rope is weighted and the grip relaxed. The rappel is well controlled, smooth and it minimizes rope twisting. Also no need to worry about the locker being twisted open.
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