Post by dougsanders on Oct 15, 2014 10:43:50 GMT -8
Additions to the bullets, Terminology in Safety and Rescue, page 486; or incorporated into text.
My intent is not the precise wording of these definitions rather suggest terms to enhance climbers understanding of accident causality. It is likely more explanation is needed than what I have put down.
Exposure: Being subject to the influence of a hazard. If there is no exposure there can be no outcome (injury.) Conversely, unless suitably mitigated, ALL hazard exposures MAY result in death.
Hazards: For climbers, hazards are sources of serious illness, injuries or death outcomes Climbers may be exposed to human, route, environmental, and/or weather hazards. Most serious climbing injuries arise from a hazard the victim choose to expose themselves to. Hazards maybe created before the trip by poor planning or preparation.
Our definition excludes hazards that are not likely to, but theoretically could, lead to serious injuries such as tripping while crossing a boulder field, slipping on Class 2 terrain, or becoming lost. Our definition further excludes hazards that have extraordinarily low risk such as car accident en route to the trailhead, poking an eye with a hiking pole, failure of water purification system on a short trip, etc.
Not sure if the hazard is significant enough or risk high enough to be dangerous? One assessment tool is to ponder what would happen if dozens of climbers were exposed to the same situation you are facing. Is it reasonable to expect some to have a bad outcome? If so, then remember the outcome to YOUR exposure to the hazard is unpredictable and humans are biased toward risk taking decisions. Is the exposure worth your life?
Hazard Recognition: Identification and assessment of hazards.
Outcome: The consequence of exposure to a hazard. Outcome for any particular exposure is unpredictable. Outcomes may range from favorable (like not donning crampons on a short icy exposed stretch which resulted in saving time) to death.
Risk: Mathematical probability a hazard exposure will lead to an outcome of serious or lethal illness or injury. The outcome to the next exposure to a hazard is independent of the risk.
Risk Perception: Climbers biased perception of their risk for serious injury or death from an exposure to a hazard.
Risk Tolerance: An climber's comfort with their risk perception.
Cognitive Bias and Heuristics: Underlying human traits and calculus that mislead climbers to inadvertently creating hazards, underestimating risk, selecting a poor response to a hazard, or using insufficient mitigation to assure safe outcome.
Safety Check. It is worth your life? Is the exposure to the hazard worth your life? The outcome of the exposure is unpredictable. Can the hazard be avoided or mitigated? If not, what is the least risky alternative.
Safety Strategy for hazards to prevent or lessen bad outcomes: (1) Avoid exposure, (2) Effectively mitigate and (3) Select less risky alternative.
Alter FOTH definition of mitigation. Mitigation may prevent outcome from becoming injurious; mitigation does not prevent the accident.
My intent is not the precise wording of these definitions rather suggest terms to enhance climbers understanding of accident causality. It is likely more explanation is needed than what I have put down.
Exposure: Being subject to the influence of a hazard. If there is no exposure there can be no outcome (injury.) Conversely, unless suitably mitigated, ALL hazard exposures MAY result in death.
Hazards: For climbers, hazards are sources of serious illness, injuries or death outcomes Climbers may be exposed to human, route, environmental, and/or weather hazards. Most serious climbing injuries arise from a hazard the victim choose to expose themselves to. Hazards maybe created before the trip by poor planning or preparation.
Our definition excludes hazards that are not likely to, but theoretically could, lead to serious injuries such as tripping while crossing a boulder field, slipping on Class 2 terrain, or becoming lost. Our definition further excludes hazards that have extraordinarily low risk such as car accident en route to the trailhead, poking an eye with a hiking pole, failure of water purification system on a short trip, etc.
Not sure if the hazard is significant enough or risk high enough to be dangerous? One assessment tool is to ponder what would happen if dozens of climbers were exposed to the same situation you are facing. Is it reasonable to expect some to have a bad outcome? If so, then remember the outcome to YOUR exposure to the hazard is unpredictable and humans are biased toward risk taking decisions. Is the exposure worth your life?
Hazard Recognition: Identification and assessment of hazards.
Outcome: The consequence of exposure to a hazard. Outcome for any particular exposure is unpredictable. Outcomes may range from favorable (like not donning crampons on a short icy exposed stretch which resulted in saving time) to death.
Risk: Mathematical probability a hazard exposure will lead to an outcome of serious or lethal illness or injury. The outcome to the next exposure to a hazard is independent of the risk.
Risk Perception: Climbers biased perception of their risk for serious injury or death from an exposure to a hazard.
Risk Tolerance: An climber's comfort with their risk perception.
Cognitive Bias and Heuristics: Underlying human traits and calculus that mislead climbers to inadvertently creating hazards, underestimating risk, selecting a poor response to a hazard, or using insufficient mitigation to assure safe outcome.
Safety Check. It is worth your life? Is the exposure to the hazard worth your life? The outcome of the exposure is unpredictable. Can the hazard be avoided or mitigated? If not, what is the least risky alternative.
Safety Strategy for hazards to prevent or lessen bad outcomes: (1) Avoid exposure, (2) Effectively mitigate and (3) Select less risky alternative.
Alter FOTH definition of mitigation. Mitigation may prevent outcome from becoming injurious; mitigation does not prevent the accident.