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Post by gregggagliardi on Mar 25, 2013 20:42:01 GMT -8
What do folks think about the rescue chapter focusing more on small party/partner self rescue techniques? The current chapter focuses more on large party rescue and techniques used by mountain rescue organizations. This material is interesting and valuable, but climbers need to know how to perform rescues when help is unavailable or a long time away.
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Post by nicklyle on Mar 27, 2013 11:55:22 GMT -8
This is a great idea, and it is timely too. We seem to be homing in on a better way to integrate small party rescue techniques into the basic-intermediate curriculum.
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Post by dougsanders on Apr 4, 2013 16:32:34 GMT -8
Spot on! We need eliminate the confusing mountain rescue organization high angle rescue techniques.
One of several examples, the "wrap 3, pull 2" anchor (25mm webbing) is rated for 40kN (a 3 person load, low stretch 1/2" rope, 10:1 static system safety factor) while lessor warps/pulls were not considered/discussed. Even a single wrap sling, 18kN (doubled, less half for bend,) exceeds my understanding of the maximum strength of about 10mm dynamic rope, about 15kN.
The F8-AR Committee decided a party of 4 was consistent with the Climbing Code and The Mountaineers approach to party safety. While many climb in parties of 2, F8-AR did feel a need to imply endorsement for this practice. Those who routinely climb in parties of 2 are advanced enough to have taken a self-rescue course; their skills allow a lot of improvisation. Additionally, two person rescue techniques, generally, vary from 3+ person techniques and competed for space available.
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Post by nicklyle on Apr 12, 2013 5:43:30 GMT -8
On rock, teams of 2 per rope may have to function independently in an emergency for practical reasons, even if the rope of 2 is part of a larger group.
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Post by jasonmartin on Aug 3, 2013 8:25:59 GMT -8
I think the best way to distinguish the two types of rescue is to identify one type as "team rescue" and the other type as "self rescue."
My experience is that Mountain Rescue organizations get very focused on Team Rescue techniques, which are more-or-less techniques modified from NFPA technical rescue standards. And while these are good, they're not realistic for the average climbing team as they require a lot of equipment climbers don't really carry. More information on improvised self rescue could only be an improvement...
Jason
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Post by dandunne on May 4, 2014 20:03:51 GMT -8
Hi Everyone,
Here is what we have been doing in Bellingham at the small team rescue class that I have been teaching. The general assumption is you have 2 people with just the gear you would carry with you on a one day, multipitch climb. Nothing special. No new knots to learn or special tools to bring, just existing knowledge and tools used in a slightly different way. Either the leader is injured, or the belayer is. You have to get to the injured party and bring them several pitches down to the ground. Assumption is that injured party cannot use their arms and cannot be simply lowered to safety.
Here are the three ways we rap for reference:
Two person, one atc rap: Fold a double runner in half, tie a figure 8 or overhand in the middle so you have 4 independent loops. Hook two loops to an atc through the rope. Hook the third end to the victim and the fourth end to the rescuer. Connect rescuer and victim harnesses with a short sling. Use a prussik at the brake hand if desired.
Counter balance rap: victim tied to rope with figure 8. Rope goes up through anchor, down to atc on rescuer. Rescuer and victim harnesses connected with sling. As rescuer feeds out rope, both people descend. 2 feet of rope through the atc means 1 foot of movement down.
Single rope rap: Fold a double runner in half, tie a figure 8 or overhand in the middle so you have 4 independent loops. Hook two loops to an atc through one strand of rope. Hook the third end to the victim and the fourth end to the rescuer. Connect rescuer and victim harnesses with a short sling. Connect the single strand of rope to a second atc at the rescuers harness, with a prussic at the brake hand. Note to be confused with a “rap on one line” wich is just one person, with one atc, on one line of rope.
Here are the ways that the students have been solving these scenarios (rescuing a leader who is more than 30 meters out is the hard one, hence the many different solutions):
Belayer injured: Leader builds anchor, ties off. Rap to injured belayer on one line with one atc. Release rope from belayer, flake nicely. Prussik to anchor. Pull rope, normal rap to belayer, intermediate station if necessary (more than 30 meters out). Two person, one atc rap to bottom
Leader injured, cannot be lowered, method 1: Belay escape. Prussik to leader. Build anchor. Connect leader to anchor with load releasing hitch (makes it easier to get them on the atc later). Belayer does a rap on single rope to belay station. Untie rope. Prussik back up to leader. Pull rope, two person one atc rap to bottom.
Leader injured, method 2: Belay escape. Prussic to leader. Build new anchor near leader, attach rescuer to anchor, attach leader to anchor tightly (use load releasing hitch in pulley mode, or brute force) to get slack in main line. Temporarily attach main line to anchor or harness. Release leader from main line. Tie main line to new anchor. Single rope, 2 atc rap with leader and belayer. Untie rope at bottom, flake nicely, prussik back up to anchor. Untie rope from anchor. Normal rap to leader, two person one atc rap to bottom.
Leader injured, method 3: Belay escape. Flake rope very nicely. Attach prussiks, weight rope. Release rope from anchor so it is flapping in the breeze. Pray the piece that the leader fell on holds. Ascend rope to leader. Add anchor support if possible. Connect rescuer and leaders harnesses with a sling. Two person 2:1 rap.
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Post by dandunne on May 4, 2014 20:06:39 GMT -8
Too long, didn't read from above: Use your current tools and knowledge in creative ways, and you're in for a long night if your leader is injured and more than half a rope length away.
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