Post by gregggagliardi on Mar 2, 2013 16:53:55 GMT -8
We need to ascend a rope in numerous circumstances; to get past a crux, to rescue a leader. to climb out of a crevasse. The Texas Prusik system works okay but there are better alternatives.
One of the most expedient is the use of an ATC in auto-blocking mode along with a foot loop attached to the rope with some sort of moveable friction device (auto-block, Tibloc, ascender, etc.).
See: www.newtribe.com/documents/tip4.htm
The system on the link uses a Gri Gri and a handled ascender. One can substitute an ATC Guide in autoblocking mode and Tibloc or a French Prusik (auto block)
This system works well to convert a rappel to an ascent and vice versa.
See the link:
alpineinstitute.blogspot.com/2009/07/rappel-rope-climbing-trick.html
It is also possible to attach to the ascent carabiner to a pulley and to run the rope from the belay device (belay hand side) up through the pulley to construct what is known as a YO YO ascent,
The latter technique is a great tool with several applications. It is a great way to ascend from a free hanging position, it is a great way to get out of a crevasse, and its also a good way to get up and down an instructor rope when teaching climbing.
When glacier climbing I take coils (per the Scottish method) and attach to the rope with an ATC in autoblock mode. If I fall into a crevasse I attach a foot loop (Purcell Prusik) to the friction knot already on the rope and haul myself up by alternately pulling on the rope coming out of my auto-blocked belay device and moving the friction knot (or device; my preferred device is a Tibloc).
The belay device is easily converted from autoblock to standard belay mode, where it can now be used to belay the climber below me. Everything is already set up and ready to go for most of the usual exigencies.
I would be happy to demo this technique.
Gregg
One of the most expedient is the use of an ATC in auto-blocking mode along with a foot loop attached to the rope with some sort of moveable friction device (auto-block, Tibloc, ascender, etc.).
See: www.newtribe.com/documents/tip4.htm
The system on the link uses a Gri Gri and a handled ascender. One can substitute an ATC Guide in autoblocking mode and Tibloc or a French Prusik (auto block)
This system works well to convert a rappel to an ascent and vice versa.
See the link:
alpineinstitute.blogspot.com/2009/07/rappel-rope-climbing-trick.html
It is also possible to attach to the ascent carabiner to a pulley and to run the rope from the belay device (belay hand side) up through the pulley to construct what is known as a YO YO ascent,
The latter technique is a great tool with several applications. It is a great way to ascend from a free hanging position, it is a great way to get out of a crevasse, and its also a good way to get up and down an instructor rope when teaching climbing.
When glacier climbing I take coils (per the Scottish method) and attach to the rope with an ATC in autoblock mode. If I fall into a crevasse I attach a foot loop (Purcell Prusik) to the friction knot already on the rope and haul myself up by alternately pulling on the rope coming out of my auto-blocked belay device and moving the friction knot (or device; my preferred device is a Tibloc).
The belay device is easily converted from autoblock to standard belay mode, where it can now be used to belay the climber below me. Everything is already set up and ready to go for most of the usual exigencies.
I would be happy to demo this technique.
Gregg