Post by dougsanders on Sept 6, 2013 10:31:37 GMT -8
The current Chapter 4's emphasis on 'in town' conditioning is too great in my mind. I just don't think the vast majority of climbers use such a regimented approach, nor is it necessary. No question, in town exercise helps with general fitness, intermediate rock skills, maintaining fitness, and correcting specific deficiencies.
The current chapter describes setting up a 'SMART' program based on a 'specific' peak. Most climbers are interested in overall aerobic and strength improvement. A program targeting a specific peak makes sense for an expedition climber but is too targeted for most climbers. Also, the new climber lacks the perspective to develop such a program.
The chapter mixes a number of specifics with generalities. Two exercises and one stretch are illustrated. Other described, but not illustrated, exercises such as 'upright row' require preexisting weight lifting knowledge. Seems to be a short coming if the desire is to outline a program someone can follow.
While just about any type of weight, aerobic, core and stretching training improves fitness, I believe it is very hard to condition for general mountaineering 'in town.' One can't emulate a mountaineering day in an hour or two of exercise. Hiking, backpacking, snowshoeing, XC skiing, and the like are better conditioners.
Increasing weight carried, distance traveled, elevation gain and duration on these trips seem to me to be the strategy for improvement. Frequency of training is important, too. While younger climbers can get by with less, for most, there should be a trip every 1-2 weeks for improvement.
Very importantly, these outdoor activities also “exercise” many other essential mountaineering skills such as planning, preparation, hydration, pace, foot placement, navigation, clothing, leadership, teamwork, decision making, etc. I think a greater emphasis on these concepts is warranted.
Also, it makes sense to tie aerobic conditioning with nutrition and burning fat as a sources of energy for mountaineering.
The current chapter describes setting up a 'SMART' program based on a 'specific' peak. Most climbers are interested in overall aerobic and strength improvement. A program targeting a specific peak makes sense for an expedition climber but is too targeted for most climbers. Also, the new climber lacks the perspective to develop such a program.
The chapter mixes a number of specifics with generalities. Two exercises and one stretch are illustrated. Other described, but not illustrated, exercises such as 'upright row' require preexisting weight lifting knowledge. Seems to be a short coming if the desire is to outline a program someone can follow.
While just about any type of weight, aerobic, core and stretching training improves fitness, I believe it is very hard to condition for general mountaineering 'in town.' One can't emulate a mountaineering day in an hour or two of exercise. Hiking, backpacking, snowshoeing, XC skiing, and the like are better conditioners.
Increasing weight carried, distance traveled, elevation gain and duration on these trips seem to me to be the strategy for improvement. Frequency of training is important, too. While younger climbers can get by with less, for most, there should be a trip every 1-2 weeks for improvement.
Very importantly, these outdoor activities also “exercise” many other essential mountaineering skills such as planning, preparation, hydration, pace, foot placement, navigation, clothing, leadership, teamwork, decision making, etc. I think a greater emphasis on these concepts is warranted.
Also, it makes sense to tie aerobic conditioning with nutrition and burning fat as a sources of energy for mountaineering.