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Post by Tony Tsuboi on Sept 26, 2013 14:23:11 GMT -8
We’ve been teaching a five point system check prior to rappel cast off. Basically the climber works thru the system chain from the anchor to the harness. This eliminates a lot of fiddling, re-checking things that have already been checked, and uncertainty around missing something. As long as each point has been checked, the sclimber can weight the system, unclip their personal anchor and cast off. I think this is a best practice to consider adding into the FOTH chapter on Rappel.
- Anchor - Rope - Belay Device - Locking Biner - Harness
Anchor is self explanitory – SRENE anchor
Rope represents 1.) Rope is affixed to the anchor, 2.) Confirm both strands reach secure ground or there are stopper knots in the end
Belay device represents the rope is correctly fed thru the belay device
Locking Biner is locked
Harness is secure and double backed
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Post by jasonmartin on Sept 30, 2013 12:11:25 GMT -8
In the new Single Pitch Instructor manual we have the following text on this:
Rappelling Systems Check
It is important to teach students how to go through a systematic mental checklist before rappelling. One acronym that facilities the process is: ABCDE. A is the rappel anchor. Take a look at the anchor, slings, chains, etc., and make sure the rappel rope is threaded properly through the anchor. The anchor should be redundant all the way to the point where the rope is threaded through the anchor. Do not rely on a single piece of gear in the anchor system, whether it is a single cord, sling, or rappel ring. B is for buckles on your harness—double-check to make sure they are buckled properly and doubled back appropriately. C is for carabiner. Make sure the locking carabiner that attaches the rappel device to the harness is being loaded properly on the long axis—and squeeze check to make sure that it is locked! D is for look down and see where the rope goes. Does it reach the ground? or the next ledge? E is for the rope ends. Do they have stopper knots? Is the system closed?
Thanks,
Jason
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Post by gregggagliardi on Sept 30, 2013 13:42:58 GMT -8
See also posts on this topic on "Additions to Freedom 9"
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Post by dougsanders on Oct 1, 2013 7:31:24 GMT -8
F is for Force (load the rap before removing PA) G is for Geo (look for loose rock that you may knock off) H is for Hazards (make sure those below are out of the way from falling stuff like rock; consider an autoblock, yell out "On rappel" before starting.) ....
Although I almost always favor acronyms or, less so, memorizing a checklist, there is no such thing as a free lunch, they have to be rote memorized and the memorization competes with other material the Basic student must learn. I have seen a disconcerting number of students recite the 5-point list in a different order, jumping from component to component but never seeing the serial interconnectivity that is essential.
Given the serial nature of a rap set up, and being in front of the rappellers face, logically sequentially tracing the system, visually and tactilely, from anchor to free rope ends makes better sense to me.
The ability to sequential trace systems is used quite a bit in climbing be it planning a trip, choosing the line to lead, building an anchor, aid climbing, etc. The review of a rap system is a great way to teach this concept to Basic students: There are many components to it, they are logically and serially connected, and, only at the end of the review can the system be affirmed to be usable.
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